I had bought this "fix every outboard in the known world" book on ebay.
It turns out I didn't need it at all.

Here are all the new parts from the bag spread out. Hey! I now I can actually name each one!

First step is to remove the two cowling halves. Lots of screws on top, underneath, and on the sides. Keep looking - you'll find them. This is what you'll end up with.

Next, take off the carburetor cover by removing the little black knobs (screws on the inboard side of each) from the levers.

Remove the fuel line by pinching the sping clamp tabs together and sliding up the hose. MAKE SURE THE FUEL VALVE IS SHUT OFF!!
Then loosen the screw clamp of the carburetor and slide off the engine intake.

Here is the carburetor removed, sitting next to all the new parts.

Get some rags or towels, and remove the bowl drain and then the bowl itself.

Take the black donut thing out of the bowl (float) and clean out the bowl well. All that brown goo is what clogs things up. Get it all out. Note that there is a new "donut" in the kit.

 

Remove the float valve and hinge assembly by pushing a paperclip into one of the end holes of the hinge (if it hasn't already falled out). The bowl edges hold the pin in place when it is on there. No, really, it does - hold it up there and see. You get new ones of all of these in the kit.

Carfully lift up and remove the old gasket. Be careful not to gouge or scrape up the aluminum surface where the gasket sits, or you could have leaks. There is a new gasket in the kit

Remove the fuel barb inlet. There's a new one of these, too.

Remove the idle set screw. There's a new one of these, but no new spring (reuse the old one)

Remove the o-ring from the intake side. There's a new one in the kit.

 

OK, you may want to take a break now. You'll need all your wits about you in the next couple of steps. This is the only (sort of) hard part. I fumbled around and made this step work the way I descibe it here, but maybe I missed something very obvious that would have made it easier. I am sure someone will let me know if I did.

It may have been easier to remove the throttle assembly altogether first, but having it there (and sort of in the way) wasn't too bad. You may want to disassemble that part and add it back later.

 

Loosen (a lot) the brass screw-top thingy that holds the throttle assembly on. Then loosen and remove the aluminum "cap" holding everything on the top. Pull out all the guts that come out along with the cap.

Here comes the hard part......

Use a screwdriver or something to inch up the spring (compressing it) along the slot in the barrel until you can cause it to rest on the top edge as shown in the picture. Be VERY CAREFUL not to scrape up the outer wall of the barrel!

Next, bring the spring and the cable over and outside the slot in the barrel as shown here. Remove the main jet needle and "C"-shaped plate. Note that the needle has a very small C-clip attached also.

 

 

Take what remains of the carburetor and clean it out really well with gas or carburetor cleaner, then blow/dry it out with compressed air or let dry naturally. Here's the nice clean carburetor body ready for its new parts.

Find the new main jet needle (starting to learn the names now too, aren't you?) and its accompanying c-clip. Attach the c-clip to the same indentation as the old one.

SIDE NOTE: I did read that book and found out that the other indentations are for running the engine more lean (notches higher up) or more rich (notches lower). The "normal" setting is on the second from the bottom as mine was, shown here.

Alright, here we go - we've got to get that needle back in the spring-thingy.....

Withe the spring still compressed and outside the barrel (still no gouges or scrapes on it, right?), insert the new needle with its c-clip installed into the barrel. Put the bit C-clip plate on top of that, making sure the top C-clip plate opening is oriented toward the gap in the barrel.

 

Here it is installed with the spring still outside the barrel.

Re-compress the spring, and lift it and the cable back over the top of the barrel.

Make sure that the big C-clip plate is still oriented correctly, or else the spring and cable will not seat down far enough, and your needle (out the other end) will be crooked.

Slide the whole assembly back in, being carful of both the barrel sides and the needle tip to keep them from damage. Tighten down the aluminum cap and then the brass nut that holds the throttle assembly.

Make sure the throttle arm is tightened down while it is parallel to the carburetor's airway, or the cover plate will not line up right..

Whew! That's it! The hardest part is done now - the rest of this is really pretty easy.

Install the old, CLEANED, main jet seat (I still don't know why they didn't include a new one)

 

 

Install the new fuel inlet barb.

Install the new idle set screw. You'll have to use the old spring. It goes in the open hole in the picture. Turn it all the way in until it gently stops (don't force it), then back it out 2 to 2-1/2 turns.

Assemble the new parts for the float valve assembly. The needle slides into the forked part -- in case you weren't paying attention during disassembly ;)

Gently insert the assembly into the carburetor and put the hinge pin back in. The bowl will hold it in when finally assembled. YOU will have to make sure it stays in for now.

 

Install the new gasket from the kit - no adhesive or sealant is necessary (makes it easy to get off for next time).

 

Insert new bowl drain gasket using the old drain screw.

Install carburetor onto engine intake. Make sure you push the carburetor over the intake as far as possible to that good contact with the internal o-ring can be made.

I left off the throttle control panel so I could mess with the carburetor while trying to start it back up.

I put it into the "test tank" and had my starting fluid handy to get it running. After a few pulls to fill up the bowl with gas, it started right up on its own!!! --------- SWEET!

I'll have to adjust the idle when it warms up to operating temperature.

Here's the carburetor cover back on. I'll let you get the two cowling halves back on without picture ;)